![]() You also need to mount the aux heater pump to the new fan shroud with a screw or bolt.Īfter you install the fan, put the upper radiator hose back on and follow the fill and bleeding procedure for the coolant system. You will need to make a custom bracket if you want to bolt the ac canister to the new fan shroud. The fan comes with installation instructions that will tell you how to install and wire it and aluminum mounting brackets that are easy to modify to the shape you need. I still had overheating issues using the temp controller, I never could get it adjusted right so I just wired it to come on when the key is on and removed the temp controller. The brackets can be easily modified to mount the electric fan to the radiator. The fan I purchased was a Flex-a-Lite 183 for a '03-'08 dodge ram. The shorter belt is a 99” or 100" x 13/16" 6rib v-belt. ![]() The upper idler pulley is smooth and the ribbed side of the belt will ride on the pulley. Install the new shorter belt in the same way as the old belt. I just threaded a 3/8” bolt into the hose endsħ. There will be no pressure here, it’s just to keep excess fluid from leaking from the cooling coil. Plug the hoses going to the cooling coil that is located between your radiator coil and the AC coil. Remove the hydraulic fan pump reservoir by removing the 2 bolts and two hoses.ĥ. Remove the other 3 bolts and the pump will come out the same way the alternator did.Ĥ. I used a 10mm 3/8" drive socket with a knuckle/swivel and a few extensions or you can use a 10mm wrench from above where the reservoir is. There is a bolt behind this line, it is the worst one to get to. I couldn’t remove the smaller steel line on top of the hydraulic unit so I just broke it off. It takes some maneuvering to get it out once it’s loose but it will come out without removing the lower control arm.ģ. 1 wire harness, the battery wire, and 3 bolts. Jack up the passenger side front of the car and support with jack stands.Ģ. Take your time and don’t put a hole in the radiator.ġ. I believe there are 2 bolts towards the top of the shroud and 2 bolts about halfway down, it’s tough to pull the shroud up and out of the engine compartment because the brackets on the bottom are big. ![]() These will be full of fluid so drain them into an oil pan and cut the hoses going to and from the cooling coil leaving an inch or two so you can plug them with a 3/8” bolt.ħ. Unbolt or cut the lines going to the hydraulic unit on the fan. Unbolt the aux heater pump from the fan shroud and remove the electrical connector.Ħ. Unbolt the silver AC canister from the fan shroud and zip tie out of the wayĥ. Remove upper radiator hose and lower radiator hose (good time to replace thermostat, DCCV, coolant reservoir, etc at this time since you will need to bleed the cooling system after)Ĥ. ![]() **Before you start, UNHOOK THE NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINAL**ģ. Removing the hydraulic pump is a pain so don’t say you weren’t warned. You will need to purchase a Flex-a-Lite 183 cooling fan and a 99" or 100" x 13/16" multi rib v-belt. I didn’t take step-by-step pictures but here's the info as I remember. This should be the same process as the 2002 Birds. I have done this conversion on 4 Lincoln LS's including 2 of my own. This is a write up on how to convert your factory hydraulic cooling fan to an electric cooling fan saving you a lot of money. ![]()
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